 |
|
|
|
 |
|||
|
^^^^^^^^^^^^^ MY FTP! |
|||
|
|||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
I bought this sorry looking MZ in May. It was up for silly bids on a Facebook group and after some hustling £100 got it. Initially my only want for this machine was for two items. That being the exhaust pipe (which was an original) and the carburettor which was a BVF 30N3. I picked it up with the help of my brother and after getting it home I realised I had my work cut out. Mainly because the engine was totally seized. It took me some hours of dismantling and furious hammering with mallets to get the piston unstuck. Unfortunately it so crusty I am not sure whether it’s worth putting back on. It has evidence of both lack of lubrication and head seizer (square seize) however I will put it in to keep originality. The machine has 30k miles on it.. |
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
Because I have recently moved to a location without a garage an idea struck me to use this machine as my commuter. It can go rusty, I don’t care. It can be neglected, as it already is. I managed to completely repair the carburettor with my old lemon juice trick. This freed up the float and allowed the removal of jets. I did buy a few items to make my life easier like a new jet set and replace missing componants (like a throttle tube) etc but very little money was spent on the bike. I used up a lot of parts I had spare and converted the rear brake light to the earlier ETZ 250 round lense (with two seperate bulbs instead of one dual fillament) and had to use a round indicator at the front (though all the others are rectangle). |
|
|
|
One major issue with it is the ignition timing. The points (which are new) are totally wacked. The proper way to setup points on this bike is to find the largest gap in the contact breaker by turning the engine. Then once you have found that you should gap it to 0.3mm. Then find 2.5mm before top dead centre, and using the adjusting plates find the point at which the points are on the edge of opening. It is common belief that the spark from the ignition is caused byt eh points closing (slapping) and giving a spark, but the spark is created with the contacts actually open. The bike can at present only run with the gap of the points beyond the proper size. This means improper running such as misfires (especially at high revs) and the odd hiccup not to mention actually being too advanced. I am on the lookout for electronic ignition to resolve this issue. |
|
|
|
It passed the MOT without any advisories despite what it looks like. This is partly because the motorcycle MOT is not as strict as a car’s. For a start, emissions are not tested on a motorcycle, and the only real things that are looked at are that all the lights (and horn) work, the wheel bearings are okay and tyres are not obviously problematic. Brakes are ‘sometimes’ tested.
After many months of working on the bike, I finally got it to an every day ‘work horse’ conditio from February 2017. The replacements are as follows: - Electronic Ignition using the ‘Zaplon elektroniczny’ Polish unit. - Replacement coil - Original one was overheating and causing constant stalls. - Spare Barrel & Piston. |
